Named after Catharina Ustings Ras – the indomitable founder of Steenberg Farm – the restaurant now takes up her nickname, Tryn. And what a name to live up to!
Legend has it that at 22 years old, Catharina disguised herself as a man to travel by ship from Germany to South Africa after the death of her first husband in 1662. She went on to acquire the land that became Steenberg and married four more men over her life span; three who died under unusual circumstances and two of those being caused by wildlife!
But I digress…back to the restaurant.
Now boasting an achingly pretty and on-trend interior of jewel-coloured velvet, eye-catching abstract art and copper and gold finishes, the setting is certainly fitting for the likes of the bold and ahead-of-her-time Catharina.
The new menu from Chef Kerry Kilpin follows suit and is exciting and fresh, showcasing a mix of Asian and Middle Eastern-style flavours infused with fresh local produce.
“My team and I are very excited about bringing Catharina into the 21st century with the opening of Tryn, and creating a dining experience that is more connected to her free and feisty spirit,” says Kilpin.
Expect starters such as tempura prawns with charred pineapple and peanut salsa and avo; tender calamari with red cabbage salad and sumac mayo; or steak tartare with pickled daikon, sesame, ginger and wasabi mayo.
Vegetarian options include ash-crushed chevin (goat’s cheese) with compressed pear or a beetroot tataki with edamame and roasted hazelnut. I sampled the ash-crushed chevin and was delighted by a riot of complementary flavours and textures.
For mains, I was swayed by the sound of the pork belly with courgette purée, snow peas, cabbage and apple salsa with pineapple and passion fruit jus. A succulently rich and sweet, yet, well-balanced dish.
Other tempting sounding mains include the venison with pomme purée, baby beets and fine beans as well as the ethically-sourced fish with aubergine parcel, butternut, coriander, harissa and rose petal. The veggie options include the risotto of the day or the shimeji mushrooms with tender greens, beetroot, pak choi and toasted pine nuts.
Dessert sees dishes such as the “carrot cake” – a sweet tumble of whipped caramel, cream cheese, spiced pecan ice cream and blueberry compote. Or the warm chocolate and strawberry sphere with strawberry salsa, basil ice cream, strawberry coulis and popping candy.
However, I would recommend that you deny your sweet tooth and rather choose the exciting texture of Boerenkaas with onion soil, walnut and cumin brittle and spekboom chutney. The dish is a riot of satisfyingly savoury flavours, and reminiscent of an ever delicious and comforting macaroni cheese; a seriously elevated mac and cheese.
The option of pairing all these courses with the excellent Steenberg wines is the cherry on top of a memorable dining experience.
Tryn at Steenberg is open seven days a week for breakfast, lunch and dinner. For bookings, contact +27 (0)21 7137178 or email az.oc.nyrt@ofni.
